Collection: Part Two

Research

Rebecca Horn

Rebecca Horn is well known for impressive style installation. She has a bold style on doing her work. One of her work “Finger Gloves, 1972” has really successfully show her style of work. Her work really show an ideas focus on the connection with touch and sensory. It’s beyond what the public definition of art.

Also my other favourite work from her is “White Body Fan, 1972”. I think she has the guts and boldness to play with the size of it. And the most impressive part of the work is that when the ‘fan’ is flat, it shows a really nice geometric round shape, but when it wore by a person, it has shown a different sensation. This artwork makes me think of Issey Miyake's work(fashion line 132 5), that’s also the reason why I like her work.

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Finger Gloves, 1972 (Rebecca Horn)

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Dawn series (0030809)(Frances Richardson) Colour Pencil on hand- made cotton paper (Fabriano Roma) 480mm x 660mm 2010-12

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-THIS PLACE-

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St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel

I started my research with look and focusing on the St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel as the gothic revival style architecture and hand painted wall patterns caught my attentions. The strong atmosphere and powerful feeling somehow has been attracted and surprised me. 

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First hand image.

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First hand image.

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Timeline

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DRIES VAN NOTEN (MEN A/W 2016-2017)

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-TIME WARP-

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Rythme n°1 1938. Oil on Canvas. Robert Delaunay

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Rythme n°3 . Robert Delaunay

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Robert Delaunay is a French artist who is well known for the orphism art movement. In most of his artworks there are contained lots of colourful and geometrical shapes, he constructed the shapes in an abstract way. To me, his paintings “Rythme n°1” and “Rythme n°3” reminds me of the time tunnel, the layers of colourful circular patterns looks like swirls and plumes that seems can direct and take people to another era. Delaunay heightened the visual sensation of the work by creating simultaneous form and depth rather than descriptive reality.

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Popped collar 80s

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Popped collar/ upturned collar is one of the popular trend for 80s fashion. 

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Collar sample

This testing collar sample was made by myself according to the primary research with paper cut outs. The basic shape is came from one of the shape/silhouette pattern in my initial design drawings. When the collar is upturned, it could show a jigsaw puzzle shape. The smaller attached piece is the shrink size of the original jigsaw pattern, I added it to the collar as when it is flipped it became horizontal and could use poppers to connect with the other side of the collar. 

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Junya Watanabe SPRING 2015 READY-TO-WEAR

For the first time I have looked at this collection, the used of geometrical shapes and the colour way makes me think of Bauhaus movement. The rounded shapes and the used of leatherette/PVC materials looks very similar to the surface textures of vinyl records. The avant-garde silhouettes and the circular patterns shown on this collection reminds me of the orphism art pieces by Robert and Sonia Delaunay.

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80s Hong Kong

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Co-Create Project

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Museum object

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Our museum object is a scrap book with collection of different wine labels. It is quite unusual as I normally see what people collect are some post stamps, tickets or stickers, this is my first time to see a collection of wine labels. From the logo and different typography on the labels, it reminds me valuable and high quality. Also as I can see the labels were pasted perfectly without any damage which makes me think that the collector might be the producer or the owner of the wine company. 

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Helen Bullock S/S 14

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Helen Bullock is an illustrator and fashion textiles designer, she often do hand painting and creates one-off limited edition garments. I like the boldness of using bright colour and geometric/irregular shapes in her designs. Her designs inspired me to apply some thick, large scaled hand painting brushstrokes on clothes to enhance the visual effect as my partner's discipline is Fine Art, we could also apply some prints on our designs. 

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Helen Bullock S/S 14

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The irregular shapes printed patterns makes me think of the broken pieces from wine bottles. The white shadow underneath gives a more 3D feeling to the pattern design, this inspired me to use some broken glass pieces to form a sculpture with combining my own practical skills from fashion. 

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Rottingdean Bazaar S/S 2018

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This design is quite similar to one of my initial ideas which is inspired by the wine labels. As I was thinking about the key word "valuable", sometimes I saw people like to ignore the coins and don't really like to use coins to buy things, it seems like they think coins are not so valuable but in my perspective, coins also have there value. 

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UK Penny Floor Project | Using 27,000 1 penny coins and creating a copper penny floor (Matt Giles)

At first I think this idea is crazy, by watching this video I was thinking about in which way to collect this amount of coins and also due to my OCD problems I was thinking how the penny could perfectly fit within the floor and to me the outcome makes me feel very satisfied. Some people could ignore or avoid using coins with less value, but the way that people did a floor made by the 1 penny somehow could made them more valuable. 

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Cornelia Parker

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Cold Dark Matter: An Exploded View 1991

Wood, metal, plastic, ceramic, paper, textile and wire

Reference: http://www.tate.org.uk/art/artworks/parker-cold-dark-matter-an-exploded-view-t06949

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I really like the used of lighting in the middle of the installation artwork to construct different shadows of the fragments around also creates a explode feeling. This art piece inspired me an idea of using broken glass pieces from wine bottles to create installation as the semitransparent wine bottles and natural sunlight could interact to create special shadows.

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Marisa Merz

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Untitled (Living Sculpture) 1966

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Merz stapled strips of aluminium together to create this suspended sculpture, which originally hung in her home before being exhibited in a gallery. Like other artists of the Arte Povera group, Merz used inexpensive, ordinary materials to challenge the elite status of art. She is also concerned with domesticity and has used techniques with feminine associations, such as knitting. ‘There has never been any division between my life and my work,’ she has said.

Gallery label, January 2016

Reference: http://www.tate.org.uk/art/artworks/merz-untitled-living-sculpture-t12950

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The components were hang irregularly and at different heights, with some elements hanging inside each other and some within reach of the floor. To me the longer pieces looks like a oversized knitted sleeve, the other irregular small pieces looks like some flattened cans or small pockets that could trigger people to think what objects were been holding inside.

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White Body Fan 1972 (Rebecca Horn)

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Frances Richardson

Frances Richardson invented sort of another way to convey a message. She used (-), (+) to make the whole artwork. Her work is really similar with mark-making. Her work has two ways to see it. When you walk back, you see a really nice shape with different gradient made with different density of (-), (+). When you look closely, you can see beautiful pattern it had made, and the delicacy of the line quality. It’s beautiful and stunning. Her work is really interesting that could leads people to think and open a interesting discussion among people. No doubt one of my favourite artist. Her work never fail amazed me. Her different approach on making art makes her stand out.

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Frances Richardson

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First hand image.

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First hand image.

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The hotel’s story starts in 1865 when Midland Railway ran a competition for the design of a 150- bed hotel with the brief that it needed to add lustre to its soon to be completed St Pancras station. A handful of architects submitted their schemes within the requisite timeframe but much to the annoyance of the other entrants the competition had to be extended for the architect of choice of one of the Directors of the Midland Railway, George Gilbert Scott, to submit an entry. Perhaps inspired by Barry and Pugin’s designs for the Palace of Westminster (Houses of Parliament) which was under construction at this time Scott submitted a plan far bigger, grander and far more expensive than the original specification. Nevertheless, his audacity paid off and he was awarded the contract in 1866. Unsurprisingly though this win came at a cost to his original designs as he was instantly required to subtract a floor as well as having to adhere to a number of other cost cutting measures, principally due to the international financial downturn of the same year commonly known as the Panic of 1866. Construction of the Midland Grand Hotel, as it was originally known, took place between 1868 and 1876 and was completed in various stages with the East Wing opening on 5th May 1873 and the rest gradually opening through until the end of 1876.

Reference: http://www.stpancraslondon.com/media/1569/history-of-st-pancras-renaissance-hotel.pdf

 

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Gothic Revival style architecture

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The St.Pancras Hotel building is categorised as Gothic Revival which is the predominant architectural style at the time and it is still considered to be the finest example of the gothic revival architecture in Britain nowadays. 

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Base on the hand painted wall patterns, I noticed that the main colour used are terracotta(brownish-red. In my opinion this colour helps to enhance the resplendent and the sense of power of the hotel also represent quality, therefore I chose  terracotta as the main colour use for my designs. 

 

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Comme des Garçons Homme Plus (FALL 2017 MENSWEAR)

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I have look at both Dries Van Noten and Rei Kawakubo(Commes des Garcons)'s menswear collection designs which has included use of similar patterns as the wall patterns in St.Pancras Hotel. Although the silhouettes and designs are both look quite traditional which reminds me of the hotel doormen's uniforms, but the raised surface gives rich textures to the patterns and having good contrast with the plain fabric which helps to highlight the patterns  and make them more prominent. Personally I more prefer the embroidery patterns in Dries van Noten's designs as refer back to the St. Pancras Hotel, it would be more suitable to use embroidery patterns as the fine details could shows and enhance the feeling of high quality.

 

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Sonia Delaunay. Prismes electriques 1914

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Robert Delaunay and his wife Sonia Delaunay’s painting style is quite similar, as Sonia was one of the primary propagators of orphism art(a movement founded by her husband Robert). From the colour point of view, Robert’s used of colour looks more solid while in Sonia's paintings the colour used are seems like more blended. In one of her painting “Prismes électriques”, the expressive combination of color and forms gives me a complex feeling, it looks more real and somehow it gives me an illusion feeling that the layers of circular shapes are moving like wheels inside a clock.

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Victorian-cut puzzles

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Traditional-cut puzzles

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Victorian-cut puzzles feature unique-shaped pieces and whimsies - every piece is different. This type of cut is popular for wooden jigsaw puzzles. Traditional-cut puzzles featured the standard ribbon cutting jigsaw puzzle pieces, with only a few shape variations of pegs and holes. 

Reference: http://www.puzzlewarehouse.com/victorian-vs-traditional-cut-jigsaws/

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First hand image.

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J.W Anderson SPRING 2017 MENSWEAR

In this collection, Anderson took inspiration from Antoine de-Saint Exupéry's Le Petit Prince. (The Little Prince). This collection has contained some cartoonish prints, the garments with jigsaw puzzle patterns attracted my attention, I like the design of combining the puzzle patterns with some layering/overlapping visual illusion effect, the unfinished puzzle edges makes the whole garment look very unique and I think the designs are really interesting and eye-catching. In one of the look, there is a checkered patterns made with using yellow and red vertical lines and black and baby blue horizontal lines, those lines reminds me of the neon lights also the beam of lights in the time tunnel.

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80s Hong Kong

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80s Hong Kong's Neon signs

 

In the post-World War II era, neon signs became an indelible part of Hong Kong’s streets and skyline. Supplied by hundreds of workshops, they announced all manner of businesses—from restaurants, hotels, nightclubs and pharmacies to jewellery, tailor and pawn shops—while proclaiming the city’s growing prosperity.   More recently, however, Hong Kong’s neon signs have been disappearing at a rate of thousands per year, replaced by brighter burning and more energy efficient LED signs. As they recede from view, neon signs, and the processes and stories behind them, become a matter for preservation.

 

 The Heyday of Hong Kong's Neon Signs

First introduced to Hong Kong in the 1920s, the use of neon signs exploded in the 1950s through the 1980s. Though notable concentrations could be found on the commercial thoroughfare of Nathan Road and in the nightlife district of Wan Chai, no part of the city was left in the dark. By 1970, entire building facades were covered in neon, including the National Panasonic sign on Nathan Road, which Guinness declared to be the world’s largest. 

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Rottingdean Bazaar S/S 2017

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Through looking at this design, I was questioning about how to attach the balloons onto the garment as I found the design was quite interesting and unique also could leave an imaginary space to the audience or wearer. I want the final outcome could create some interactions with our audience, therefore the use of materials must not be too common.

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Rottingdean Bazaar S/S 2018

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Some people flattened cans after used and collect them to get money, as they still have value for recycle, but how about broken wine bottles? 

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Cornelia Parker

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Cornelia Parker

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Thirty Pieces of Silver 1988–9

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Silver is commemorative, the objects are landmarks in people’s lives. I wanted to change their meaning, their visibility, their worth, that is why I flattened them, consigning them all to the same fate. As a child I used to crush coins on a railway track – you couldn’t spend the money afterwards but you kept the metal slivers for their own sake, as an imaginative currency and as physical proof of the destructive powers of the world. I find the pieces of silver have much more potential when their meaning as everyday objects has been eroded. ‘Thirty Pieces of Silver’ is about materiality and then about anti-matter. In the gallery the ruined objects are ghostly levitating just above the floor, waiting to be reassessed in the light of their transformation. The title, because of its biblical references, alludes to money, to betrayal, to death and resurrection: more simply it is a literal description of the piece. 

Reference: http://www.tate.org.uk/art/artworks/parker-thirty-pieces-of-silver-t07461

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I admire the way that the artist changed the value of the silver pieces by flatten them, people normally think that damaged objects are useless and without any value. For example, if people want to but some paper from a shop, they probably won't choose or pick the creased one, but to me, each objects are having there own value no matter what it looks like. 

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Alexander Calder

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Tines, 1943

Pitchfork tines, glass, wire, shell, string, and paint

http://www.calder.org/work/by-category/hanging-mobile

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Alexander Calder

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Red Ghost, 1949

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By looking at Alexander Calder's hanging mobile sculptures, I was questioning how could the steel wires and the hanging objects could keep the balance. His sculptures could integrating natural movement that driven by random air currents and the combining of materials balance themselves naturally by weight, surface area, and length of wire which I think it helps to give interactions between the artworks and audience and this is also what I want my outcome would be. 

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